As an addendum to my last post about The Birches Resort on Moosehead Lake in Maine, six months later I visited the southern part of Maine, in and around Camden. Remember the classic 60s film Peyton Place? It was filmed in this once entirely Waspy bastion of Victorian morality. It’s still pretty rare to see any rainbow nation nationals and most people have blond hair and wear Paul & Stark. But okay, I wasn’t here on a sociological study nor was I conducting any surveys. I discovered though an entire community of European expats. A Dutch gay couple owned a hotel, a Swiss owned a fine eaterie. The B&B I loged in was owned and operated by a newly transplanted Italian couple and so on.
I had four days of blissful relaxation at the Camden Maine Stay Inn www.camdenmainestay.com, a perfectly situated house a few minutes jaunt to the downtown area owned by a cordial couple, Claudio & Roberta Latanza. They serve the best breakfast outside of Tuscany, a la American style. Their blueberry coulis was overwhelmingly delish over a crispy fried tart like pancake. Fresh berries plucked right from the garden adorned our table alongside buttercups and tiger lillies. Muffins, blue or cranberry, scones and thick slices of whole grain bread with freshly made jam were available besides eggs, bacon or sausage and yoghurt. Coffee was strong and European, just the way I like it.
Driving outside the tiny enclave of Camden you’ll find a wealth of good eats. Here are some of my tasty recommendations in and out of town. If you’re desperate for fried clams and excellent lobster rolls that are fresh and cheap stop on US Route 1 in Wiscasset at the Sea Basket. www.seabasket.com. Though it looks like any old fast food, albeit clean and freshly painted, don’t let the juvenile wall paintings distract you from the briny taste of thick succulent chewy clams breaded lightly. If you happen to be a biker or wanna right next door is a mobile shop where the owners sell biker gear and sexy lingerie.
Don’t let the corny name fool you. The Fisherman’s Catch Restaurant owned by Ned & Amy Cardinati in Wells, Maine is a stop you must make. Like Joe’s Stone Crab House in Miami, The Catch serves up soft sweet lobster that is less than two months old. The shells peel off so there’s no need for nutcrackers or tools. The fleshy meat is sweeter than Swedish crayfish, Japanese sweet shrimp and just about any other crustacean meat served on this side of the Atlantic or Pacific. The buttery bliss for a lobster junkie like myself cannot be praised enough. These little babies are not exported nor sold out of state as they would lose their rich flavor in transport. They are caught and then sold that same day. The Catch is also infamous for serving generations of Bush’s. The server was very proud of that and pointed to George W’s picture. Before I had time to vomit I almost choked on my free sample of berry cake flinging little bits of blueberry over the counter. Excuse me, I’m a progressive liberal and where I come from I am totally non-plussed. She shrugged her shoulders and smiled, asking me if I wanted any more cake. Hmm yep, I did. It was good.www.fishermanscatchwells.com
Ephemere Bistro-Bar is owned by the jovial Andre Constantin who enjoys drinking it up with customers - new and old. After dining on scallops in a puff pastry with crunchy vegetables and whipped mash I headed to the bar (where all the action was) and met a Camden native, Judy a lovely PR woman. Next to her were two Dutch women, one a former lover of Andre’s who lives in the States. Apparently she dragged her friend up north to show her the town and her former catch. The bistro has a dash between the bar and literally that is how the space is set up. Walk about ten paces from the farthest corner of the upstairs room and you’ll be at the bar. Located at 51 Bayview Street in Camden town. Call 207-236-4451. Andre doesn’t believe in websites or too much technology. What a bore!
For a quick lobster or crab roll try the Waterfront, also in Camden. www.waterfrontcamden.com You’ll be out of pocket a mere $15.00 for a chunky roll, with or without tartar sauce. I prefer my lobster rolls plain. Salt, pepper, butter, mayo, tartar sauce, nada! Why ruin a good thing? You can sit outside on the little back porch overlooking Camden harbor. It’s picturesque.
So far not too many New Yorkers have infested Camden and I say that’s a good thing. Although there were plenty of seasonal tourists many seemed to hail from Massachusetts and New Hampshire. It seems to be “the place” to go if you want a little bit of culture yet a lot of natural space. One of my aquaintences bought a property a few years ago. I had the notion while visiting, that I too could see myself sitting on a porch in a swing in a summer home in Camden. Perhaps it’s the next hot destination stateside? Who knows? One thing’s for sure. When I do return I will certainly go back to the Maine Stay Inn.
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